Greetings from Barranacabermeja, my new home for the next two months. The team here is low on volunteers right now and so I’ve come to help out and use it as an opportunity to familiarize myself with the organizations we accompany in the Magdalena Medio region. The rhythm of work here isn’t as frenetic as Bogotá, so hopefully that will translate into some more consistent posting. For now, I’d like to share my first task upon joining the PBI Barranca team: a 10-day accompaniment trip up into the lush mountains of the Cimitarra river valley.
I arrived in Barranca Sunday night (August 3), tired and nauseas after the winding 10-hour bus ride from Bogotá. The change in scenery as we dropped down from the Andes into the valley of the Magdalena Medio was truly spectacular, and I tried my best to get some good shots as our bus tore around corners and attempted to pass the lumbering oil tankers that clog the highway three at a time. Arriving at the PBI house was a bit of a shock at first—it was so quiet! Even when everyone is asleep in the house in Bogotá, you’re constantly bombarded by traffic, car alarms, and music from the street below. The house in Barranca is nestled in a quiet, residential neighborhood free of bus lines. Apart from the occasional party in one of the neighbors’ houses down the street, it’s pretty tame around these parts. I have yet to take a tour of the entire city, and look forward to seeing what my colleagues have assured me is a much more accurate portrait of life in Barranca.

Melanie and Me
After a day of preparation, my colleague Melanie (member of the Barranca PBI team) and I set off on a 10-day accompaniment trip with the Cimitarra River Valley Farmer Association (Asociación Campesina del Valle del Río Cimitarra—ACVC) to some of their more remote farming projects in Cimitarra valley in northeastern Antioquia department. A little over 41,000 people live in the Cimitarra valley, with 65% living in the region’s rural areas. With such a high percentage of the rural inhabitants, it’s no wonder that over 22,000 residents of Cimitarra valley (more than half) claim affiliation with the ACVC.

yes, it is that pretty in real life
The work of the ACVC is multifaceted and internationally recognized for the important role it plays in the preservation of land rights for Colombia’s farming classes. In addition to coordinating projects to help fortify the social and economic independence of farming families in the Magdalena Medio region, the ACVC also organizes campaigns of peaceful resistance to the exploitation and consolidation of their lands by multinational corporations. The ACVC, like many rural communities struggling for self-preservation here in Colombia, maintain a strong discourse against ALL armed actors in the country. As is almost always the case with organizations seeking to maintain their independence in the conflict and protect their communities and their lands from economic exploitation, the ACVC faces constant persecution from illegal armed actors as well as the Colombian military and judicial system. More on this in upcoming posts.
And so with all this in mind, I began my first rural accompaniment trip with the ACVC. Leaving Barranca in the afternoon we traveled by taxi, Land Cruiser, and motor canoe to the Puerto Nuevo Ité Cooperative, essentially the commercial center for smaller communities of the Cimitarra valley. Last hitching post for at least half a day’s ride, and last place to get cold beer in the municipality before heading into the more remote regions where the ACVC work. In case I haven’t mentioned this already, it’s pretty hot and sticky down here in the Magdalena Medio. Even though it gets well into the 90s during the day, it almost always rains at night (we are in winter down here, after all) making for one ripe breeding ground for mosquitos, ants, cochroaches, and mean little flies that like to bite.

choking back the tears
It was in these conditions that we set out on our first day of the real part of the journey—two full days of travel by mule to a 500-hectare farm called La Cristalina, deep in the jungle hills of the valley. Due to a shortage of mules at the beginning of the trip, we spent the first three hours hiking through shin deep mud in knee-high rubber boots under the soul-crushing heat mentioned above. I was so happy to see my mule at our first rest stop that I ran over and gave her a hug. She promptly bit my shoulder. Some other things I learned about traveling by mule: they’re not too affectionate; they like their space; they like to let you think that you are in control, and then take off down a ravine at full tilt; they fart while the walk; a lot.
After another night in our beloved hammocks and another full day of travel, we arrived at La Cristalina and were instantly blown away by the raw beauty of the place. La Cristalina sits in a shallow basin in the hilly jungles of northeastern Antioquia. The modest farmhouse sits on a little knoll right in the middle, dividing the property into two: one side for the buffalo, one side for the cattle and mules.

farmhouse and the buffalo range
La Cristalina is home to the ACVC’s cattle-sharing program. Families in the Cimitarra valley that are members of the ACVC can borrow 15 head of cattle (14 cows and 1 bull) for a term of 3 years to start up their own herd. After the term is up, the cattle are returned to La Cristalina to be rotated out to another family. In addition to this program ACVC run a buffalo-sharing program, organize workshops on sustainable farming methods, and hold basic health trainings to help build self-sufficiency within the communities in the valley.
We spent the next three days hanging out, exploring the surrounding hills, and helping with work around the farm where we could. La Cristalina is almost completely self-sufficient; all the food we ate during these days was grown and harvested on the land, and the water we bathed in and drank (with water purification tablets, of course; still haven’t built up that tolerance to giardia) came from the river that snakes around the property. They had just harvested their bean plots, so it was rice, beans, and buffalo cheese for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We slept outside every night in our hammocks under the covered porch that wrapped around the house.

my hammock and me before the storm
A covered porch is a really nice idea, but it doesn’t really do too much good when the nightly rainstorms come with high winds that change direction every time. Most nights we picked the right side of the house to sleep on. But we got a little too confident, and our last night we paid for it when our side of the porch got blasted by a big old fashioned torrential downpour. It wouldn’t have been so bad without the wind blowing the rain nearly vertical, strait into our mosquito nets. We ended up sitting up half the night in a relatively dry patch of porch, hoping the rain would just pass on by like the other storms. Eventually we just threw down the less wet hammock and slept on floor. Needless to say, we got a lot of ribbing from our accompañados the next morning. I do my best to maintain a certain amount of professional impartiality with this work, but I have to say I was thoroughly impressed by the members of the ACVC that we accompanied on this trip. Their ability to maintain focus and a sense of cohesiveness in the face of constant persecution is truly inspiring. They are amazing organizers, have clearly defined goals, and are unceasing in their pursuit of them. On a more personal level I found these folks to be accomodating, warm, patient, and with a biting wit to boot.
The journey back to Puerto Nuevo Ité was uneventful in terms of protective accompaniment, but fascinating in terms of flora and fauna. Colombia continues to blow my mind the more that I explore its various regions. In this trip we saw three different tree monkeys, wild tortoises, miniature sloth engaged in by far the slowest mating ritual I’d ever seen, and more bird species than I could count. We even saw leopard footprints near the farm, and had to put up with jokes all week about how leopards prefer the meat of blonde foreigners.

making our presence known
From Puerto Nuevo Ité we followed the same route back to Barranca, arriving home to a refrigerator full of fruit and MEAT. I never thought I would go through meat withdrawals, but I was feeling pretty anemic as we limped back into the house. At any rate it was a fantastic trip, and a great first rural accompaniment for a relatively new volunteer. I had the chance to talk a lot with the members of the ACVC that we accompanied on this trip, and you can be sure there will be another post soon about their continuing struggle for self-preservation and respect from the Colombian state.